ARTICLE III.

NOTES ON THE SOUTH COAST OF

SAGHALIEN.*

Br GEO. C. ANDERSON.

OKUI-KOTAN BAY

Is an anchorage on the South Coast of Saghalien and is used as a station for collecting and drying seaweed. The shore is fronted by terrace-like cliffs, with out-crops of shale and probably coal, which I had no time to examine closely. Behind the land rises in wooded ridges, presenting the usual Saghalien aspect. A few miles further east there is a lofty mountain range with several fine peaks which are useful landmarks in making the anchorage, here and at the Convict Station Karsakof, which is about six miles further to the westward, round Cape Endouma.

A fine stream of fresh water runs into the sea at Okiu-Kotan and ships' boats can water with great ease, there being a deep hole close to the beach and water sufficient to float any ship's boat close up to it. Trout were observed at the mouth of the stream. The Bay is sheltered from west round by north to S.E., but the bottom is rock. The rise and fall of tide appears to be about 4 feet by the marks on the rocks. I made a hasty rough survey of the Bay and found the water shoal gradually to 3 fathoms, and then rather suddenly to 13 feet. The best plan is to stand in with the hut bearing about N.N.W., and anchor in 4 fathoms; a vessel is then quite far enough in. The

* Read before the Society on the 26th September 1881.

trend of the valleys on this part of the coast is north and south, while round Cape Endouma it is east and west. The Russians have constructed a tolerably good road from Karsakof round to a village called Poran Tomarie, and I heard that this road was to be carried on to Boussie on the east-side of Aniwa Bay, and will probably pass close to Okui-Kotan and Chupisani.

There is good wild-fowl shooting to be had at the mouth of the large river to the westward of Karsakof, but the musquitoes are very troublesome in the summer. Hazel grouse* are found in the woods, and deer have been seen. Bears are numerous according to the Russian officers. Sea-lions, seals, and whales I have seen myself.

A number of Japanese junks come here in the summer and take away salmon and herrings. There is a Japanese consul or commercial agent at Karsakof, to whom all Japanese arriving must report.

It may perhaps be worth mentioning that the Shirum-sha, a species of wild leek, reputed to be a certain cure for scurvy, is found all over Saghalien and is largely used by the Russians and natives all over the north. The Russian soldiers on the Amoor are very fond of it, and detachments are sent specially to procure supplies of it for winter use. The smell of it is much worse than garlic. I was told by an old Okhotsk whaling captain that he has often, after having lived weeks at sea on salt provisions, run for the island of Shantar, with himself and crew almost helpless from scurvy, and after using the Shirumsha for a single week they invariably got perfectly well. He also told me that in the vicinity of the Shantar islands there is a rise and fall of 24 feet in the tides, with very strong tidal currents in Shantar Strait. It was on Shantar island that the unfortunate crew of the Nellie perished from scurvy, with plenty of wild berries and Shirum-sha within reach, had they known their use and value.

Bonasia betulena.

CHUPISANI BAY

Is a tolerably good anchorage about fourteen miles to the eastward of Cape Endouma, South Coast of Saghalien.

It is sheltered from west round by north to S.S.E. The water shoals gradually, and the lead is a safe guide in taking up a berth. Inside the four-fathom line the bottom is sand, and further to the eastward the sandy bottom extends for some distance off shore. To the westward of the Bay the shore and bottom are alike rocky.

There is a settlement of Russian peasants here, who seem well off and contented; they raise cattle principally. Fine salmon-trout, clams, eggs, and milk were procured from them. The place is sometimes used as a seaweed station, but none is being collected this year. Fresh water can be procured with some little trouble from a small stream which runs into the sea close to Pinnacle Point; also at another stream close to the village. There is an out-crop of coal close to the beach; the surface layers are little better than shale, but doubtless better coal would be found further in. The Russian peasants stated they made use of coal which burns well, from a seam three versts inland, which I was unable to visit. I saw large quantities of what appeared to be iron ore, but it did not feel very heavy when taken in the hand.

There are some curious Aino graves to the east of the village, with quaintly carved posts and the remains of small canoes near them. There are no Ainos here now. I believe these gentle, honest, but dirty savages to be quite untamable, and destined to disappear before the advance of the white man. In Yezo saki is doing the work for the Japanese. They cannot be got to take to agriculture. The Ainos on the West Coast of Saghalien are pretty well looked after and taken care of by the traders, as they are of great value to them; but sooner or later vodka will find its way among them, and then the end of this interesting race may be calculated; for drinking to the gods, i. e. getting dead drunk when opportunity offers, is part